Holy Moly! Wholly Frijoles!

When I first saw the “grand opening” of Wholly Frijoles in a shopping center near Great America at 5414 Grand Avenue in Gurnee,  I mistook it for a Chipotle type of place.   Unfortunately, Gurnee is a mecca for chain restaurants and I thought Wholly Frijoles was the latest in the line of construct-your-own-burrito joints.   I usually venture to neighboring towns to find something that can’t be found at any other restaurant.  My brother ended up going there and easily convinced me not only was I wrong about this new place, but that I needed to go soon.

I went there with my husband and a friend.  Upon entering Wholly Frijoles, brightly colored walls of green and orange greet the guests.  About fifteen tables that can seat between two and five line the walls.  A full bar with very large margarita glasses on it is stationed in the back corner of the restaurant.  We did not have to wait for a table at 5:30 on a Friday, but the place quickly filled up and there were several parties waiting by the time we left.  Unfortunately for them, Wholly Frijoles does not take reservations.  However, you can call ahead and they will put your name on a waiting list.

The wait staff was efficient and friendly.  Our waitress, Jannette, wrote her name on the paper covering the tablecloth and immediately brought us complimentary chips and salsa.  My husband deemed the salsa the best he had at a Mexican restaurant and was happy when she asked if we wanted more.  When Jannette saw us perusing the side of the menu that featured traditional Mexican fanfare, enchiladas, tacos, burritos, etc., she informed us of Wholly Frijoles’ signature dishes that take a “gourmet” approach to Mexican food involving a variety of sauces and preparations for steak and shrimp.

I usually go right for the enchiladas, but I am glad Jannette led us to another section of the menu where my friend ordered the Bistec Borracho, a steak marinated in beer and seasonings, while my husband and I decided to split the Family Platter, which included an enchilada, a chile relleno, a leg of lamb, shrimp, a stuffed chicken breast (pollo relleno), and chipotle mashed potatoes.  Our meals came with soup and salad.  The Wholly Frijoles “house salad” is unlike any other house salad I’ve had.  In addition to what one might expect from a house salad, this one also has cilantro, corn, tortilla strips, and a sour cream and cilantro based dressing.  It tasted delicious and refreshing.

Our meal was just as tasty.  The steak enchilada and chile relleno put every other one I’ve had to shame.  The ingredients tasted fresher than the others.  The chipotle mashed potatoes were a lovely orange/red color with a hint of spice.  The chicken breast was moist and stuffed with cheese and an assortment of vegetables.  The shrimp were a bit overcooked but wonderfully marinated in lime, cilantro, garlic, and a chile de arbol sauce.  The leg of lamb was dry, but the sauce on the plate made it very tasty.  They also have a seafood and steak/chicken platter I’d like to try.

The prices might be more than a taqueria, but are definitely worth it.  Most of the entrees are between $13 and $20 while the combo plates of the more traditional fare are around $10.  This would be a great place for someone who would like to try something different from the usual Mexican food.  It would be a great place for solo diners (there were a couple while we were there) as well as small groups.  

The only complaint I have is that the restaurant is not laid out in way that would allow it to accommodate parties larger than six or seven.  When I was there, a party of six was crammed around a round table and it looked as if one member of the party would have been in the way if a waiter needed to get by.  I’d like to take my family there for a birthday dinner but I don’t think they’d be able to comfortably seat all eight of us.

Even if I might not be able to go the Wholly Frijoles with a large party, I will definitely go back, hopefully sooner than later.

I am not sure of Anthony Bourdain’s take on Mexican food, but I do think he would appreciate Wholly Frijoles’ business strategy.  Chef J. Carmen Villegas had a successful Lincolnwood location since September 2001 before expanding to Gurnee.  While sharing do’s and don’ts of the business side of a restaurant, he Bourdain warns that when a restaurant is successful the owners feel “invulnerable” and feel the need to expand (87).  Wholly Frijoles knew that had something good and did not immediately open a location down the street or even in Chicago for that matter.  They opened a location about an hour outside of the city to reach an even broader clientele.